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World record-holding mountaineer Nirmal Purja dies in Broad Peak avalanche

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१६ श्रावण २०८३, शनिबार २२:०७

London : Renowned Nepali mountaineer Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja, celebrated worldwide for redefining the limits of high-altitude climbing, has died after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range.

Elite Exped, the expedition company founded by Purja, confirmed his death on Saturday through a statement posted on its official Facebook page. “It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm our beloved Nims has tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” the company said.

Purja was leading an expedition on the 8,047-meter mountain when the avalanche struck on Thursday. He was among 10 climbers, including five other fellow Nepali climbers, reported missing after the incident. Pakistani authorities recovered the bodies of four climbers on Friday, while search efforts were hampered by difficult weather and terrain.

Elite Exped also confirmed that Purja’s trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa, were among those who lost their lives. “Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy,” the statement said, extending condolences to the families and loved ones of all those killed and requesting that their privacy be respected.

Paying tribute to its founder, the company described Purja as one of mountaineering’s greatest climbers whose courage, humility and unwavering determination inspired millions around the world. “The world has lost one of mountaineering’s greatest climbers; a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than we often imagine,” the statement read.

The company said Purja’s achievements extended far beyond record-breaking ascents, noting that he dedicated his life to demonstrating what could be achieved through courage, ambition and perseverance. It also credited his vision and leadership for building Elite Exped, the Nimsdai Foundation, Skydive Nimsdai and the Nimsdai Store, saying his legacy would live on through the countless lives he inspired.

Elite Exped thanked the search and rescue teams for their efforts under extremely challenging conditions and said it would refrain from making further comments beyond information confirmed by the relevant authorities out of respect for the bereaved families.

Purja, internationally known as “Nimsdai,” rose to global prominence in 2019 after accomplishing what many mountaineers had considered impossible. Through his “Project Possible” expedition, he climbed all 14 of the world’s mountains above 8,000 meters in just over six months, shattering the previous world record and cementing his place among the greatest climbers in history.

His achievements continued in 2021 when he led a team of 10 Nepali climbers in completing the first-ever winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain, overcoming one of mountaineering’s greatest remaining challenges.

Born in Myagdi and raised in Chitwan, Purja’s path to mountaineering was unconventional. As a young man, he aspired to follow his father and brothers into the British Army rather than pursue a career in the mountains.

He joined the Gurkhas in 2003 at the age of 18 and served in the British military for 16 years. His career included six years with the Gurkhas and 10 years with the United Kingdom’s elite Special Boat Service (SBS), one of the world’s most respected special forces units. In 2009, he became the first Gurkha to be selected for the SBS, a highly secretive force specializing in maritime counterterrorism and strategic operations.

Purja discovered his passion for mountaineering in 2012 during a trek to Everest Base Camp while on military leave. Inspired by the Himalayas, he learned the technical skills of climbing and successfully summited Lobuche East (6,119 meters), marking the beginning of an extraordinary climbing career. Although he briefly returned to military service as a cold-weather warfare specialist, he later resigned from the British Army in 2019 to devote himself to mountaineering full time.

Beyond his climbing achievements, Purja became a global ambassador for Nepali mountaineering through his expeditions, documentary films, motivational speaking and humanitarian initiatives. His message that “human potential is limitless” resonated with climbers and adventurers across the world.

His death marks the loss of one of Nepal’s most celebrated mountaineers and one of the most influential figures in modern high-altitude climbing, leaving behind a legacy that transformed the global perception of Nepali climbers and inspired generations to push beyond perceived limits.

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